16 Days to go... Here's our Itinerary

With only 16 days to go before our trip, I thought I’d share my itinerary for Southern Italy. While my 'hub' cities are set in stone, the day trips are still flexible, so I’d love to hear your suggestions!

We will be flying into Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) and immediately transferring to the Leonardo Express to Roma Termini, followed by Intercity 861 to Naples, with a scheduled arrival of 6:30 PM. Before exiting the airport, we will pass through the new EU Entry/Exit System (EES), which uses biometric scanning (fingerprints/face) instead of manual passport stamps. As a heads-up for anyone planning European travel in the last quarter of 2026, this new system will be fully operational, requiring an online application and a €20 fee for most visitors.

Once in Naples, we’ll be using the city as our ‘hub’ for five days. Given how much there is to see in this bustling, energetic city, I decided to limit our archaeological day trip to just Herculaneum. Why Herculaneum over Pompeii? My wife and I debated this for quite some time, watching dozens of videos and remaining torn. Ultimately, a good friend—similar in age and interests—who recently returned from Southern Italy gave us definitive advice: 'Just see Herculaneum.'

The heat in late spring and summer is daunting in Pompeii; it’s largely exposed, with scarce shade and, honestly, a lot of walking. While Pompeii is a huge, excellent site, a two-to-three-hour guided tour through Herculaneum is far more satisfying and easier on the body for older travelers. You’ll still experience remarkably intact streets and homes, often deemed better preserved than Pompeii. Buried by volcanic mud rather than ash, Herculaneum boasts two-story buildings, carbonized wood, and vibrant frescoes, offering a more detailed, less crowded experience.  Herculaneum morning to early afternoon, then back to a booking at Naples Archeology Museum in the afternoon.

Following a five-day stay in Naples, we’re boarding a train for a scenic journey to Bari—a stunning coastal town offering authentic Southern Italian charm, rich history, and world-class cuisine without the overwhelming crowds of Rome or Venice. We’ll spend six days based there, with two planned day trips: first to Alberobello to explore its unique, UNESCO-listed Trulli, and later to Matera, an ancient city with dwellings carved into limestone canyons.

Next, we take a short train ride down to the heel of Italy to explore what many consider the most beautiful city in Puglia: Lecce. Known as the 'Florence of the South,' this city boasts unique Baroque architecture and a walkable historic center, offering an authentic Southern Italian experience without the intense crowds of Rome or Venice. During our 5-day stay, we will enjoy a curated food tour and a day trip to the coastal town of Otranto to visit its 15th-century Aragonese Castle and 12th-century cathedral.

Next, we embark on our longest rail journey, crossing from the 'arch' to the 'toe' of Italy’s boot with a scenic trip from Lecce to Tropea. This journey offers a stunning combination of dramatic cliffside views and azure waters. Known as the 'Pearl of Calabria,' Tropea is a more affordable and less crowded alternative to the Amalfi Coast, featuring a charming historic center and renowned cuisine—most notably its famous sweet red onions. Our six-day stay includes two special day trips: the first to the quaint coastal town of Pizzo, famous for its Murat Castle, rock-hewn Chiesetta di Piedigrotta, and signature 'Tartufo' ice cream; and the second to Scilla, a 'hidden gem' fishing village celebrated for its dramatic coastal cliffs and the picturesque Chianalea neighborhood.

Our next adventure requires a three-train journey to Diamante, the 'City of Murals' and the undisputed capital of the Calabrian chili pepper. The town boasts over 150 vibrant murals in its historic center, scenic Tyrrhenian beaches, and hosts the annual Peperoncino Festival, offering an authentic, less commercialized Italian coastal experience. During our four-day stay, we will take a day trip to Cosenza. Known as the 'Athens of Calabria,' this city features a dramatic, maze-like old town, the imposing Svevo Castle, the unique Bilotti open-air contemporary art museum, and rich, traditional Calabrian cuisine.

With only two ‘hub’ cities remaining, our journey moves from the ‘toes’ of the Italian boot to the ‘ankle’—the historic city of Salerno. Offering a less-hilly, more affordable, and authentic alternative to the crowded Amalfi Coast, Salerno charms with its old town, a beautiful sea-front promenade, and the historic Minerva’s Garden, all while acting as a convenient transport hub for regional day trips. 

We will spend four days here, starting with a short train ride to Vietri sul Mare, the "capital of ceramics," to explore its artisan shops, vibrant murals, and stunning sea views. Despite our hesitation regarding the crowds, we also plan to take the ferry to Amalfi, a less vertical version of Positano boasting beautiful architecture and walkable streets.

We’ll wrap up our amazing train trip with a direct journey back to Rome, where we’ll spend our final 5 days exploring the city. Rome is truly a living museum, offering an incredible mix of ancient ruins, Renaissance art, vibrant neighborhoods like Trastevere, and bustling city life. 

We are planning a day trip to Tivoli to celebrate our 47th anniversary, where we’ll visit the stunning Villa d’Este, a premier UNESCO World Heritage site. Famous for its spectacular Renaissance gardens, innovative water fountains, and frescoed rooms, it promises a serene escape from Rome’s hustle—perfect for a spring visit. And I couldn’t resist celebrating our anniversary in the Taverna di Dracula! It's popular for its cozy, Dracula-inspired atmosphere and rave reviews about the cave-like interior and themed decor. 

After that, we fly home from Rome. It’s a busy schedule, but I’d love to hear your thoughts!"